"I bought it thinking it was a Monstera, but it turned out to be a Philodendron" — this happens all the time with houseplants. Both have large leaves with dramatic splits, and garden centers often display them side by side, so mixing them up is entirely understandable. I'll admit I spent a long time raising a selloum under the impression it was a "small Monstera."
The good news: Philodendrons are just as tough as Monsteras, and the care basics are very similar. This guide covers what the Philodendron genus actually is, the popular varieties and what makes each one distinct, how to tell them apart from Monstera, and the fundamentals of care.
What kind of plant is a Philodendron?
Philodendron is a genus in the arum family (Araceae) native to the Central and South American tropics — a big group with over 400 known species. The name comes from the Greek "philo" (to love) and "dendron" (tree), a nod to its habit of climbing up and clinging to trees.
Broadly speaking, they come in two growth habits:
- Vining types: stems that trail or climb, like heartleaf philodendron (oxycardium). Great for hanging baskets and shelf tops
- Upright (self-heading) types: leaves fanning out from a sturdy base, like selloum and 'Xanadu' (kookaburra). Great as a floor-standing statement plant
What they share is high shade tolerance and decent drought resistance — in other words, they're forgiving. If you tend to lose houseplants but dream of something with big dramatic leaves, a Philodendron is exactly the right choice.
Telling it apart from Monstera — look at the splits and the holes
Monstera and Philodendron belong to the same arum family but are different plants in different genera (Monstera has its own genus). Monstera was actually classified under Philodendron at one point, so the confusion has a long history — but the distinguishing features are surprisingly clear.
- Holes in the leaf: as a Monstera matures, it develops holes inside the leaf blade in addition to the edge splits. Philodendron leaves generally don't develop holes
- Shape of the splits: Monstera splits cut deeply from the leaf edge toward the center, while Philodendrons like selloum have leaves that ruffle finely all over, like feathers
- Size: mature Monstera leaves commonly exceed 50 cm (20 in), while most home-grown Philodendrons stay a size smaller
- Juvenile leaves: both start out as heart-shaped leaves with no splits, so telling young plants apart can stump even professionals. Trust the label
If it turns out your plant is actually a Monstera, we've covered its care in detail in Monstera watering frequency and care basics.
Four popular varieties
"Philodendron" covers a wide range of looks. Here are four you'll commonly find in stores.
- Selloum (tree philodendron): an upright type with large, deeply cut leaves fanning out from the base. Its "open hand" leaves make it the variety most often confused with Monstera (it has since been reclassified into the genus Thaumatophyllum, but it's still sold under the Philodendron name)
- 'Xanadu' / kookaburra: like a compact selloum with shallower splits and glossier leaves. Slow-growing and tidy, it holds its shape well — a great first Philodendron
- Pink Princess: a sought-after variety with pink variegation on deep green leaves. Every plant's variegation is unique, which makes it collectible — but keeping the pink requires good light, so it's a bit more advanced
- Heartleaf philodendron (oxycardium): a vining type with strings of small heart-shaped leaves. Enjoy it hanging, pothos-style — its shade tolerance is among the best of any Philodendron
Care basics — the right spot is "bright shade"
The best spot for a Philodendron is a bright window filtered through a sheer curtain. These plants grow beneath tropical trees, so direct sun can scorch the leaves.
- Best: a sheer-curtained window, a bright living room
- Grows fine: deeper in the room or a north-facing room (shade tolerance is high)
- Avoid: direct midsummer sun, or the direct blast of an AC vent
Shade tolerance is real, but keep a Philodendron somewhere too dark for too long and it will get leggy — stems stretching thin while the leaves stay small. Pink Princess in particular loses its variegation and reverts to plain green in low light, so if you want to keep what makes your variety special, give it brightness. If you do want to grow one in a dimmer room, how to choose houseplants for low light is a helpful read.
Watering — "soak when dry" is the whole game
The watering rule is simple: confirm the soil surface is properly dry, then water generously until it runs out the drainage holes.
| Season | Rough frequency |
|---|---|
| Spring–fall (growing season) | Once every 5–7 days |
| Winter (dormant season) | Once every 10–14 days, waiting a few extra days after the soil dries |
The frequency is only a guideline — the real cue is "how dry is the soil," not "how many days has it been." If the soil still feels damp to your finger, wait; if the pot feels light when you lift it, water. Repeat that loop and the rhythm starts to come naturally.
The thing to watch out for is overwatering. Philodendrons store moisture in their leaves and stems, so they're resilient on the dry side but vulnerable to soggy soil. If leaves are yellowing or the soil smells sour, pause watering and let the soil dry out. We've covered this in detail in 5 signs you're overwatering your houseplants.
In winter, err even further on the dry side. As temperatures drop, the roots absorb less water, so watering at your summer pace leaves water sitting in the pot — a shortcut to root rot. "Maybe slightly less than enough" is exactly right.
Common problems and fixes
- Stems stretching with sparse leaves (legginess): not enough light. Move it somewhere a step brighter, and cut back the stretched growth in spring to reshape it
- Leaves yellowing and dropping: usually overwatering or cold. Check the soil moisture and the room temperature (above 10°C / 50°F is safe)
- Leaf tips drying brown: dry air. Keep it away from AC airflow and mist occasionally to prevent it
- Watch out for the sap: as with all arums, the sap in stems and leaves can irritate skin. Wear gloves when pruning, and keep an eye on pets and small children who like to chew
All of these are recoverable if you catch them early. No need to panic — just rule out the causes one at a time.
Keep it going gently, at each variety's own pace
Once you get a feel for "water when the soil is dry," Philodendrons are astonishingly low-maintenance. That said, everyone forgets "when did I last water this?" Register your plant in Green Logs and it will show your next watering as a "window of a few days," based on the Philodendron species page — so you can keep up at your own pace, without feeling rushed. It's free and works right in your browser, if you'd like to give it a try.